Sydney, Australia
G'Day Australia!
All I did today was sit on a plane, but I did get some first impressions (and memories) of Sydney and Australia:
If you think international immigrations at US airports are tough, you probably haven't made it to Australia yet. Case in point: you know those customs forms where you really only ever check 'no' because you're not importing anything crazy? Well, pay close attention on those Australian forms, because about 90 min before landing, all entertainment is interrupted with a screen that reads "sorry" in bold red letters about twenty times and a 'sorry' audio plays so loud, it wakes you up from your deepest sleep (if you're one of the lucky ones who can actually sleep on a plane. Hint: that's not me). Why? Because they want to make it clear that you have to declare everything, and if in doubt, you should choose 'yes' over 'no.' So I corrected a 'no' to 'yes' because if you read that form a third time, you realize that one of the items listed is 'nuts'... and there are nuts in trail mix... so you have to say 'yes.' Whew, dodged a bullet right there.
Along the same lines, it makes a ton of sense that Australia doesn't want to accidentally let in any diseases, but landing in Australia took this to a whole new level. Because when you get to the gate, you don't get to get up, grab your carry on and wait impatiently for the people in front of you to move. No, you have to sit patiently in your seat because you're about to get a complementary shower of disinfection spray. Yup, before anyone can get up, the flight attendants open up the overhead bins and then walk up and down the aisle spraying everything down (yes, including you, although indirectly). The germaphobe in me did a happy dance because I've never felt this clean before.
What was the first thing I saw of Australia from the plane? No, not the Harbour Bridge or Sydney Opera House. IKEA! There's an IKEA right next to the runway, so quite literally the first thing you see after seeing nothing but ocean for 10 hours is that all too familiar blue building with those giant yellow letters. And quite frankly, I think that's pretty awesome positioning from a Marketing perspective. 10 bonus points for IKEA for that.
Oh yea, and the below is the view from my hotel room and a walk through of the unit. Can't wait to explore the city tomorrow!
The Bustle of Sydney
I wouldn't describe myself as a city person. So it says something about a city if it manages to suck me in -- so much so, that I threw my hiking plans for the day out the window (or into the water) and let me get pulled into its bustle. (Yes, I know, this is unheard of.)
I was just going to take a quick look at the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House before heading out for a hike, but seeing those two iconic landmarks for the first time in real life felt like a magic spell was cast upon me. And that's how a quick stop turned into an entire day.
First I stopped underneath the Harbour Bridge and watched tiny little dots aka climbing tours climbing up the gazillion steps to the top of the bridge. I mentally prepared myself to do the same in a couple of days. (Nothing better than to kick off the new year with a real life stairmaster class, right?) Then I discovered the spot that Nadal and the Spanish team took their team photo yesterday, with the Opera House as the backdrop. I did contemplate for a split second hanging out at that very spot to wait and see if the German team would do the same, but thankfully reason got the better of me and I continued my walk along the water.
That's how I ended up at the Opera House. I caught my first glimpse of the inside through the giant darkened windows, and can't wait to see the real interior tomorrow night. Did you know that the smaller front building is actually a really fancy looking restaurant? I then walked into the botanical gardens, which wasn't even part of the plan for Sydney, but I'm glad I did because the flowers, plants, scents, bird sounds and views should not be missed.
Oh, and in case you ever wondered: 12/30 seemed to be the day when all the barriers, water stations, porta potties, and trash bins go up for the various NYE celebrations. Today was already busy with people so I can't even imagine what actual NYE will be like. Oh wait, I'll be there so I guess I'll find out in about 24 hours.
Food and Other Things
The first full day in Sydney was also the first time I actually went to restaurants and stores in Australia, and right away I noticed that things are a little different than in the US:
I know that America is well known for eating hot dogs, but I had no idea that Australians eat Frenchies. Fortunately for both countries, neither of those dishes are real dogs, but I'm not sure I could order Frenchies and not think of those cute little puppies. I definitely prefer calling it French Toast or as we say in German, 'poor knights.'
I also couldn't help but imagine the chef putting together (or rather smashing together) my avocado toast because apparently that's called 'smashed avocado' here. I guess we all gotta find a way to get our frustrations out. Poor avocados.
Something I would definitely like to bring back to America is the term 'toasties.' I guess it's something like a panini or grilled cheese sandwich, but toasties has such a nice ring to it. It's toasties for me from now on!
After Frenchies and toasties, I was ready for the next Australian term I had never heard of and thought I found it at the ice cream shop. They listed scoops, cones and tubs. So I thought 'tub' was just another way to say 'cup' as in 'I'd like one scoop in a cup.' Thankfully I didn't order a 'tub' though because that would have been anything from a quart to a gallon of ice cream. Not that that would have been a problem though...
Oh, and what I'm definitely going to try to find in the US?
Tim Tams (talk about a divine chocolate treat that makes you melt away, it's so good)
Za'atar (I saw this listed in multiple dishes on several menus and ordered a dish that had it. Remember the scene in Ratatouille when the rat discovers flavor for the first time? Yea, that was me and my taste buds today)
Hot cross buns (never even heard of it, but there was an entire shelf full of different kinds in the store so I bought one, thinking it's what cool kids do, and man, those are good! And I didn't even eat it hot...)
From Bondi to Coogee
First off: why can't all public transportation systems in the US be like the one in Sydney (and other major Australian cities from what I hear)?! Imagine you want to hop across town on a bus. In Sydney, it was like a dream. The buses and trains and ferries are running every few minutes. They are so clean, I think the 5-second rule actually applies. (Big contrast to Bart or Muni where I try not to touch anything and literally throw my clothes straight into the laundry when I get home). You can just use your credit card or digital wallet to tab on and off. They have a daily, weekly and weekend cap to encourage more people to take public transportation. They have discounts if you transfer between bus/ferry/train etc. And a ride across town (some 45 minutes) cost $1? Seriously, check this out. Someone should tell the US about this.
A pretty long preamble (sorry) just to say that I took the bus across town to Bondi Beach, hiked along the coast to Coogee and then took the bus and train back to where I'm staying.
Remember the can of sardines beach at Waikiki? Bondi is nothing like that. It's a huge beach with some of the softest sand my feet have ever walked on. It was also fun to watch all the surfers catching the waves. From Bondi you can then walk along the coast from beach to beach to beach to beach until you eventually reach Coogee Beach. The views are stunning along the way and I dare say that leisurely hike is a must-do for anyone visiting Sydney.
One of the coolest things I saw along the way? Ocean baths, which are swimming pools with ocean water, build right on the shore so when the tide is high, waves will splash into the pool. You basically get the best of both, the swimming pool and the ocean experiences. Genius!
Happy New Year, everyone!
Being in Sydney for New Year's Even to see the famous fireworks above the Harbour Bridge and the Sydney Opera House has been a dream of mine for ages. And it finally came true in 2022/23!
I probably spent hours leading up to the trip trying to figure out where to go on NYE. Should I try to go to one of the many free public viewing areas? Or a paid one with presumably better (and guaranteed?!) views? Join a party boat to watch the fireworks close up on the water? Make a reservation at a restaurant with a view of the show? Find a hotel with a view to avoid the crowds? Or try to do the ultimate NYE in Sydney thing and book a ticket to a show at the Opera House?
Well, who knows how soon I will be in Sydney again for NYE, so I chose the last two options:
First, I got to see Amadeus at the Opera House (a phenomenal play, highly recommend it). I definitely had to soak it all in when I first walked into this iconic landmark. Me, inside the famous Opera House, on NYE? Crazy! Most people walked onto the terrace with a fantastic view of the Harbour Bridge to wait for the play to start. That's where I ran into a couple from Munich, Germany. Yup, them speaking German while they were standing next to me gave them away and I decided not to stay undercover and eavesdrop. (Some of you know the airplane story I'm talking about). They've been traveling the world for the past six months, started in San Francisco and are just about finishing up in Australia for the past six weeks before heading to Thailand for the last two weeks. It was such a pleasant conversation, and they gave me tips about all the places they had been and that I'm about to go to. What a small world this really is!
The play timed the intermission with the 9 pm fireworks (yes, as if one firework isn't enough, Sydney gives you two fireworks for NYE). And while you definitely had people who left the play 30 minutes into the first act to (presumably) score the perfect spot for the fireworks, there really wasn't a bad spot to see it. We were all AT the Opera House after all!
The 9 pm fireworks was already spectacular, so I wondered how they could top that for the real one at midnight. But boy, how they turned it up another notch!
I decided to not stay with the crowds but instead, I walked back to my hotel to watch the fireworks from their 23rd floor balcony. It took me twice as long to walk back because by now, the police had blocked off a lot of the streets downtown (excuse me, in the CBD) and wouldn't let anyone walk through. I made it within two blocks of my hotel when I hit a police block. I talked to three of the officers and when they finally realized that I really just wanted to get to my hotel, they let me through. Imagine missing the big firewords because of this. Whew!
I made it with just 15 minutes to spare, and I'm so glad I made it. Just see the video. That fireworks show was the most impressive one I've ever seen (sorry, San Francisco). My personal favorite was the golden waterfall that appeared for what felt like minutes underneath the Harbour Bridge. How they did that? Magic, there's no other way.
Anyway, Happy New Year everyone! I wish you all the joy and happiness for 2023!
The Manly Ferry
No, I'm not talking about a ferry that has "qualities traditionally associated with a man: strong, virile." (Not my definition, talk to Merriam Webster about that one). Manly is a beach and in my opinion, going there is a must-take ferry ride. Not only do you get a fantastic view of the Harbour Bridge and Opera House, you also get to see how beautiful the rest of Sydney is along the water. It's massive, and the shores are covered with trees, rock formations, and houses and apartments with (probably) multi-million dollar views. I found out that Sydney is surrounded by National Parks. Just gorgeous.
Oh, and did you know that Sydney has its own Alcatraz, called Fort Denison?
Pro tips for the ferry ride:
Be on the right of the outbound ferry and on the left on the inbound ferry. Trust me, the ferry does turn around after leaving Circular Quay, which you can tell immediately if you pay any attention to what the ferry looks like. It's actually very entertaining to watch the people who thought they scored the prime spot to see the Opera House, and then slowly realize that they will be on the wrong side. A little, healthy amount of Schadenfreude is always fun :)
Sunscreen up! Seriously, put on sunscreen before you get on the ferry. The Australian sun is intense.
Stairmaster class, Sydney-style
I thought climbing the Harbour Bridge was something only tourists do, but several Australians told me that that was not the case, and that I should definitely do it. And I'm so glad I did because it was an unforgettable experience, and surprisingly not as exhausting as I thought it would be. I think Bridgeclimb is the only provider of this adventure, and man you can tell they know what they are doing, from beginning to end.
After passing a test of counting to 5 without having a breathalyzer go off, you do a quick dance: Line up in two rows, face each other, right foot forward, left foot forward, bend the knees, stand up straight, pull on the right, pull on the left, reach overhead, two steps back, turn right and done. That's how you put on the harness.
Next you practice climbing fire stairs, put on a headset and sunscreen, and we're all good to go and start the climb.
You cannot change the order of the group once you start climbing, so you really have to be lucky to have good neighbors... and I was. Coincidentally, the two people in front of me where from Germany, Trier to be exact. (Do I really have to travel to Australia to meet Germans every day? Is that where they all hang out? Who knew...). The two people behind me were a couple from Ohio.
And so we started the climb, all the way to the top and back. The views were incredible, not to mention the fact that you're standing on the top of one of the most recognizable landmarks in the world.
A couple of fun facts we learned along the way:
Rubbing the granite used on the four towers of the bridge brings you good luck (and rub, rub, rub we all did)
The two flags on the top are the Australian and the Aboriginal flags. NSW wanted to put up a third one, the state flag, but that would have cost $20M. (I would recommend they get a second quote for that... or find a task rabbit to do it instead)
The First-Ever United Cup
There's a new tennis tournament in town! And I'm right there!
Usually around this time of the year, you'd have the ATP Cup taking place in Sydney, and I was all excited to witness some of the best tennis the ATP has to offer. But to my great dismay, in early 2022, they announced that there would be no ATP Cup this year. Can you imagine how disappointed I was that the one time I'm in Sydney, they cancel the tournament? For no obvious reason? Sigh.
It took a few months until some rumors started to going around about some kind of alternative event. Possibly something that would combine men's and women's tennis. Just as quick as those rumors started, they disappeared again, and I had almost forgotten about the possibility of seeing some amazing tennis in Sydney.
Until it was officially announce: the latest innovative tennis tournament would have its debut in Down Under while I was going to be there: The United Cup. A ATP/WTA tournament that would see the top players from 18 countries compete for the title.
It took a while (way too long, if you ask me) before they announced more details like where it would be, when it would take place, and who would compete. So it was a few months later that it was finally clear that not only the dates would overlap with my trip, but also the locations! Because the United Cup would take place in three cities simultaneously: Perth, Brisbane and Sydney, where I would! Talk about being in the right place at the right time!
But it got even better. Yet another month or so later, the draws and locations of the teams were announced, and I must have some good karma points accumulated somewhere because I could not have asked for a better draw: The countries that were going to be playing Sydney while I was there were the US (yes!), Germany (heck ya!), Spain (oh wow) and Australia (the home country, holy sh...!).
And to put yet a cherry on top of this all, the pairings I would get tickets to where US vs Germany (please don't ask me who I'm rooting for), followed by Spain vs Australia.
Mark my words when I say that this is only the first example when something negative (the cancelation of the ATP Cup) would turn into something even more positive than you'd dare imagine (the announcement of a brand new tournament!).
Before I get into the matches, let me tell you something (again) about the public transportation system in Australia. You know how getting tickets for any event (sports, concert, theatre) in the US immediately causes you a headache but going means you also have to figure out how to get there in the first place. Drive and be stuck in traffic and paying ridiculous parking fees? Taking BART in the Bay Area and knowing that you'll be grossed out all night and have to be on high alert on your ride back?
Not so in Australia. Every event ticket here is a free (yes, free!) public transportation ticket to and from the event. Seriously! And remember how nice and clean the buses and trains are here? Too good to be true, man. This would never exist in the US (or Germany for that matter).
So anyway, I took the train to the arena and had a bit of a oh sh... moment because I made the rookie mistake of not putting on sun screen, and it was close to 30 C/ 90 F without any clouds in the sky. The walk to the arena is about 10 minutes and I breathed a sigh of relief when I realized that my memory had not played any tricks on me. Because even though it's an outdoor event, the court itself is covered by a roof, so I would not be burning in the sun all day! Whew!
The first match I saw was Sascha Zverev against Taylor Fritz, the top two men for each country. Sascha was just coming back from his horrible ankle injury and he seemed so off, almost scared to move, it was hard to watch. Unfortunately, that also meant that it wasn't a competitive match and I think it took just about an hour. Bummer, but it was still really fun to see those two big names on the court, so close to me.
Next up was Madison Keys vs Jule Niemeier. I have to admit that I don't know much about my countrywoman (Niemeier that is) except that she hasn't won much. This was the first time I saw her live, and while she did have some great shots, her serve was almost non-existent and Madison Keys was just on fire. She was impressive to watch, such a great energy on the court. Oh, and I have to mention the great energy coming from the US bench as well where all the players were cheering her on, Tiafoe the loudest, of course.
After a long break, the evening match of Spain vs Australia started. The match of the night was supposed to be Nadal vs Kyrgios, but Kyrgios infamously pulled out of the event, drawing the ire of the fans and his country. It was entertaining to hear the commentary on Australian TV when that news broke.
That may have been a blessing in disguise for the Australian team though because fill-in de Minaur took Nadal to three sets and even dared to win that match 3:6, 6:1, 7:5. Wow!
I have to admit I didn't know any of the women, and it was a long day so I skipped that match but with a 6:1, 6:3 win for Spain, I don't think I missed much.
The US went on to win the entire event, humiliating a lot of players (and countries) along the way. Go USA!
I fell in love with Sydney, a story of love at first sight. I will definitely be back. But for now, off to New Zealand!